The votes were pretty divided on whether or not to paint
the piece but almost everyone agreed that I should move
the books out of the hutch part to lighten the look.
After being in Miss Mustard Seed's seminar on furniture painting at Haven, I decided I should just go on and paint the piece. What's the worst that could happen? I hate it painted and strip it back to wood. When I ordered Annie Sloan Chalk Paint last year, I got "Old White" , "Old Ochre" and the dark wax. I used the "Old White" and the wax for a dresser in the bedroom.
(If you would like to see how that make over went click on the post "Old White for a New Look".
The "Old Ochre" can was almost still full. The two colors are
similar. I did do a small project with the two colors together
if you would like to see the difference. It is detailed in this post.
The "Old Ochre" was painted onto the bookcase/chest.
A smaller jar of one of the newer colors "CoCo" (that I
received in my swag bag at Haven) was used an accent color.
The dining room was turned into the workshop for this
project because the piece is very heavy to move AND it
is too hot to be working outside in the carport.
Even to move the hutch part over to the table was hard.
Here is a shot of the wood planks on the back of the hutch.
I'm pretty lazy...nobody will see the back so it did not get
painted. Also, it seemed like too much trouble to empty the
drawers so I just painted them with the stuff left inside.
After a good coat of "Old Ochre", I painted on a layer of a mix
of the ochre and "CoCo" watered down a little. Then a
blotchy application of "CoCo" by itself.
The purpose of the second and third coats is to sand them back
to mimick a time-worn look as if the piece has been
painted several times and the top coats are wearing away.
(The next two photos are pre-sanding away the CoCo layer)
(Doesn't the green Frog Tape look good with the blue/green back boards?)
For the rest of the summer, I am planning on putting
inside a mix of beach-y colors. Have you seen these paint
color samples at Lowe's? You get a pretty good amount of
many decorator selected colors for only $3 each.
After getting the piece sanded down to the look that I wanted,
I made the "big boo-boo". Some spots could have used a little
more interest so I thought to add some weathered wood
crackling product in spots. My plan was that when I added the
tinted wax the next day, the wax would settle into the cracks
the product would make and make it look older.
When the product (which had gone on clear) dried,
it had a yellow tint to it.
In an unnoticeable place, I tried the tinted wax over the
crackle product. To make the yellow blend in, I had to go
pretty dark with the wax color and I didn't want that look.
I don't know if it was my fault (was there any color on the brush?)
or the product's fault (it was a new brand I had not tried)
but I spent at least another hour trying to sand down the yellow
color in all the many places I had put it on. The problem was,
to sand it down enough to not show, some of the surrounding
paint also got sanded back to the wood...more than I wanted.
Maybe I should have stopped and added some more color
to the bare spots but I was just ready to progress to the waxing. The "big boo-boo" I made with the dresser in the bedroom was to use too much of the dark wax with the clear wax.... didn't want to do that again...it adds hours of work to correct.
Some folks don't like to use the cheaper, more readily available
MinWax clear wax because it is comparatively harder than the
Annie Sloan wax (which is about the consistancey of sour cream).
I just smash it up like creaming butter with a fork.
Then add just a little of the dark wax to the creamed wax.
This was my palette of waxes for the bookcase/chest:
Clear, dark, and a mix of the two.
There is a special wax brush that you can buy to apply the wax.
I am cheap...I just put it on with a white cloth.
Just work a section at the time with the wax so it won't start
drying before you get the color that you want.
Here is a photo showing the difference between non-waxed and tinted wax areas. The excess wax
in the top corner will be rubbed in then scooted over into the non-waxed area.
This also shows a non-waxed area and, on the right, a place where
the tinted wax has begun to be added.
If you like the look of the piece of wood on the left, you could just use clear wax without color.
There were some places I wanted some of the
dings and other imperfections to show up better than
they were with just the clear and dark wax mix over them.
For those spots, I would rub a tiny amount of dark wax over
the area and work it into the dings...
...then immediately rub the clear wax only over the area to
spread out the dark wax. The clear wax is almost like an eraser
when you get a spot that is too dark. The result is this:
If you want your dings to show up better than that, you can add
back some dark wax and keep working it.
I did not wax the back boards because I think I might
re-paint them seasonally or put papers over them for variety.
Maybe I'm a slow poke but it took me about two hours
to wax the piece...is that normal?
Together again at last
The make over for the bookcase/chest turned out a little
more rustic than I had in mind. I'll let this be my
I love classy looks but don't have the income to buy expensive things so when I see something that I would like to have in my home (or to wear, etc.), I try to think of a way to "kopy kat" it in an inexpensive way. Hobby Lobby, Michael's, and JoAnn's (addicted to their coupons) are my usual sources for supplies. I am an empty-nester mother of three (and a grandmother of one). I work as a RN in a Neonatal Intensive Care Unit. I have a problem starting projects and then taking a long time to finish them so I thought a blog might be a good way to motivate me to complete projects so I can share them.